3D printing is cutting edge. There's always something new to learn.
Welcome to the Deltaprintr support page where you can find a variety of topics & articles to help you get started with 3D printing. Wether you’re a beginner looking to delve into the 3D world or an expert looking to sharpen your skills, we’re here to help.
If you’re looking for help topics regarding the older laser-cut wooden printer, you can find them here.
Get familiar with the world of 3D printing before you start.
Setup and learn about the various parts of your printer.
Learn about various potential print issues and how to overcome them.
Learn the tricks of the trade on how to post-process your prints.
Helpful tools when using your Delta Go 3D printer.
There are many different types of filaments. Learn the pros and cons.
Learn how to keep your Delta Go 3D printer in good condition.
Learn the tricks of the trade on how to post-process your prints.
Although there are a variety of software programs available on the internet for you to use with your 3D printer, we recommend using Cura.
We recommend using the 3D Benchy as a “benchmark” for testing your printer’s print settings and resolution.
We test our printers on a daily basis and fine tune our print settings to make sure our customers get perfect prints every time.
These are the default files saved on the MicroSD card that comes with the Delta Go 3D Printer.
LEDs blinking red
Either a safety mechanism was triggered that caused the printer to halt or something went wrong. Check your printer and then un-plug and re-plug the power supply to restart it.
First layer printing too close or too far from bed
If your first layer is printing too close or too far from the bed, you need to manually set the height of the bed. To do this, open up the Pronterface UI in Cura by loading a random model and click the print icon (we won’t be printing it, just need to do this to open the UI).
Home the printer and then send
G1 Z0 command. This will move the hotend down to the bed.
If your first layer is getting squished too much when you print
Move the hotend up 0.10mm by clicking +Z button in the Pronterface UI and then save the new height offset by sending
M306 Z0 followed by
M500 command. Or you can move it in smaller increments by sending for example
G1 Z0.05 , which will tell the hotend to move 0.05mm higher than what the printer considers to be the
If your first layer is printing too far from the bed
Follow the same instructions above, but instead of moving the hotend 0.10mm up, move it down closer to the bed and save the new offset.
Repeat this process until you’re satisfied with how your first layer prints. We recommend you do this process in 0.05mm increments and then save it and try a simple print before adding or removing another 0.05mm.
Extruder motor clicking/filament jam
Either your hotend is jammed or if it’s clicking only when printing the first layer, then you’re printing too close to the bed (see previous FAQ topic on how to fix this).
Fixing hotend jam
If the extruder is “skipping” (you can see and hear this if you look at the extruder’s hobbed pulley), then your hotend is jammed. To un-clog it, increase the temperature slightly by 10-20 degrees so the heat creeps up the hotend a bit and push the filament by hand into the extruder while you hold the extruder lever down.
After pushing it for a few seconds, pull the filament out of the printer and cut off the end of the filament that has expanded and caused a clog.
Also check the toothed drive gear on the extruder motor to see if there is filament residue on it. The teeth must be clean in order to be able to bite into the filament. If there is reside, it will not be able to push the filament. Use a compressed air can or nylon brush to clean the teeth. You can also take it out of the motor using the allen key that was included with your printer by unscrewing the set screw inside the brass drive gear (you may need to rotate it to see the screw holding the gear).
Tip: If you can’t pull the filament all the way out into the tube, it may be that it will not get through the push-fit on the hotend. You’ll need to use a 7mm wrench to unscrew the push fit from the hotend’s aluminum heat sink and then pull the filament out.
You can read more about this on the ‘Under Extrusion‘ section on our Troubleshooting Prints guide.
Filament slipping (not the same as a jam)
If your filament is slipping on the extruder’s drive gear, it means that the bearing is not pinching the filament enough. This is most likely due to the extruder arm’s brass screw being loose. Use an allen key to tighten the extruder’s arm (lever). Do not over tighten it as you can break the brass screw! The arm should be able to pivot when pressed down.
ERROR : Temperature took too long to be reached on T, HALT asserted, TURN POWER OFF IMMEDIATELY - reset or M999 required
This means that the printer took too long to reach the temperature you set it to. The LEDs will also blink red. Most likely the cause is that the thermistor fell out of the nozzle and was therefore not reading the actual temperature of the heater. This is a safety feature to prevent the printer from having a runaway hotend, which can start a fire.
How do you insert the filament into the printer?
You insert the filament into the aluminum extruder on the left side of the printer. Make sure you cut the filament at a sharp angle so it’s easier to insert it and lightly press on the handle to alleviate pressure from the bearing so the filament can be pushed through.
When starting a print, my printer starts printing in the air instead of on the bed!
Open your MicroSD card on your computer and check to see what the file size of the config-override is. If it says 0 bytes, it means the file is corrupt and you’ll have to re-run the factory_setup.gcode script. This happens when you forget to un-mount/eject your MicroSD card from your computer before you unplug the USB cable.
Always un-mount/eject the MicroSD card from your computer when operating the printer. You can also corrupt the entire MicroSD card if you don’t un-mount/eject it and you’ll have to buy a new card.
Why do my prints always have a lot of stringing?
Our default Cura settings have a 0.10mm z-hop enabled. This means that as your hotend travels between outside perimeters of the print, it will hop 0.10mm in the air to prevent the nozzle from hitting the print and potentially ruining it. You can certainly disable this if you wish to, but we recommend that if you’re printing a complicated or intricate model, you enable z-hop for a minimum of 0.10mm distance.
The setting can be found under Expert > Open Expert Settings > Z Hop. To disable it, simply change it to
You can also reduce the temperature you’re printing at or increase the printing speed in relation to temperature. Remember, temperature/speed are interdependent. Or you can also try increasing retraction (the distance, not the speed), though we don’t recommend you increase this, since anything over 2mm retraction may jam the hotend.
There are a variety of software programs and online services you may use in helping you bring your creations to life. Here is a list of some of the programs we have used. Deltaprintr does not endorse or offer support for third-party applications.
A great tool for cleaning up and repairing models. Sometimes you may notice that although the model looks fine in 3D when imported to Cura, it does not slice properly. Certain layers may be missing or holes may be closed when viewing the sliced layers. Sometimes you will also notice that your printer constantly crashes in the same exact spot, this may be because the Gcode that was generated is not correct. Netfabb’s free online model repair is usually able to fix these problems.
Developed by Autodesk, Fusion 360 is a powerful program that is packed with features for the beginner to the professional user. Deltaprintr has partnered with Autodesk to offer a FREE 1-year commercial subscription included in the purchase of a Delta Go 3D Printer.
This is a simple, yet powerful program originally developed by google for creating basic 3D models.
Another great free online tool developed by Autodesk for 3D modeling. Slightly outdated, but still offers a few unique features.
Developed by Autodesk, 123D is an ecosystem of a variety of apps to help you model and sculpt your creations.
If you’re looking to connect to your printer via ethernet or wirelessly so you can mange it from anywhere, take a look at Octoprint, which is a web interface solution for 3D printers.
This is the open-source firmware that all Deltaprintr 3D printers run on. Although we don’t recommend users edit the firmware if you’re not familiar with what you’re doing, smoothieware’s wiki has a vast amount of documented information regarding the firmware. Please note that our version of the firmware is heavily modified and you will only be able to use our version on the Delta Go. Do not install the firmware from the smoothieware website – only from the Deltaprintr website.