Setup and learn about the various parts of your printer.
Community → Support → Getting Started (Delta Go)
Congratulations on receiving your Delta Go Desktop 3D Printer!
Before you begin unboxing your printer, please read the following instructions below. Failure to follow instructions could result in damage to your printer. If you’re stuck on anything or have questions, feel free to ask our community in the forums or contact us. We’re always here to help and our response time is usually within 24hrs.
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As you unbox your printer, please check to make sure that everything arrived with your printer.
1 x Delta Go 3D Printer
1 x Sample of 1.75mm PLA
1 x USB cable
1 x 4GB Class 6 MicroSD Card with adapter (the MicroSD will already be inserted on the side of the printer)
1 x Power supply
6 x Magnetic arms that hold the hotend platform
Once you’ve unboxed your printer, take out the six magnetic arms one by one and attach the hotend platform to the carriages as shown in the picture of the printer above. Be careful to not damage the magnets! Make sure you do not let the magnets slam against the steel balls or anything else otherwise they can break.
Make sure that you attach the hotend’s platform to the arms and carriages so that the fan is facing in the same direction as the Delta Go logo that is printed on the bottom of the printer. Also check to ensure that the wiring harness and filament tube are positioned over the arms, not under, as shown in the picture above.
The two plastic pieces (color may vary) that were holding the magnetic arms together were 3D printed on your Delta Go printer. This shows that your printer left our facility fully functioning and has met our quality standards.
Now that your printer is set up, we’ll go ahead and install the Cura software. This is the software you will use to prepare your 3D models for printing. Download the version for your operating system and follow the screenshots below to install the software.
All Windows users: You must download this required USB driver, right click on it and “Run as Administrator” to install the INF ﬁle. It should create a new COM port that you can then use to connect to the printer.
Windows 8 users: If you are having trouble installing the driver, please try these steps.
Tip: Take a moment to disable the “sleep” settings on your computer. This will help you to avoid frustration later on. If your computer goes to sleep while printing via USB connection, the print will halt and fail.
Next we are going to set up the Delta Go 3D Printer in Cura. Follow the screenshots to the right to set up the printer.
Make sure that your machine settings match the ones listed in the last screenshot.
After completing the Configuration Wizard, the Cura control panel will open. Enable the Pronterface User Interface (UI).
The first time that you open Cura, you will see the Ultimaker Robot on the print panel. Remove this model by right clicking on the robot and select “Delete object”.
Download the Delta Go Cura profile and unzip it (if it’s not already compressed). Then go to File > Open Profile and select the file you just downloaded called Delta_Go_Cura_Profile.ini from your downloads folder.
Tip: You can verify that the new settings loaded by checking your print speed and temperature settings. It should read 30 mm/sec and 190 C.
Download the 20mm_cube.stl file and load it into Cura by clicking the “load model” icon.
After shipping your printer, we need to re-run the auto-calibration setup to ensure prints stick to the bed. You do NOT need to do this every time you start a print. You only need to calibrate if you detach and switch around the magnetic aluminum arms. As each aluminum arm has a tiny variation in length.
Un-plug your printer from the power supply and USB. Slowly move your carriages down until your hotend’s tip touches the aluminum bed.
Go ahead and connect your Delta Go 3D printer’s power supply and USB cable to your computer. Click the print icon and the pronterface window that we enabled before will pop up (Windows 10 users: if you’re having issues connecting, try download Arduino, which will install the necessary drivers). Do NOT click print yet on the pronterface window! On the command input line on the bottom right of the window, type
M119. Commands are case sensitive and letters are always capitalized.
If you see this output:
max_x:0 max_y:0 max_z:0 Probe: 0 It means that your printer’s hotend cannot make contact with the bed. This is because there is probably left over plastic on the nozzle after we tested the Delta Go 3D printer at our factory. You’ll need to move the hotend off the bed a few inches and heat it up to 200C (you may need to click the up & down arrows next to the temperature input field for the change to take effect). You’ll notice how the lights change from blue to red slowly. Once the lights dim red in and out, it means the target temperature has been reached.
Clean the nozzle with a paper towel/tweezers. DO NOT try to remove the plastic using pliers or any tool that can damage your nozzle. Heat it up and use tweezers/paper towel. You only need to clean the bottom surface of the nozzle. Be careful to not get burned!
After you cleaned the nozzle, turn off the hotend’s heater by changing the temperature to 0 degrees and move it back down and send
M119 command again. Does your output show
Copy and paste this command:
auto_calibration.gcode and click enter to begin the auto calibration process. The hotend will proceed to tap the bed several times and will take about five minutes to complete. Wait until the lights on your printer turn green before moving on (the printer may be idle for a few minutes). Do not touch your printer while this process is happening or your calibration may be thrown off.
The hotend has to tap at the corners of each tower in addition to the center. If it only taps the center and the lights turn green, restart the calibration process.
Tip: You only need to auto-calibrate after you transport your printer, do maintenance on your hotend or when you switch the arms around. The auto-calibration results are saved on the printer’s MicroSD card in the config-override file so you do not have to re-run it before every print.
You can also install the standalone pronterface (aka Printrun) version. You can download it from Pronterface.com. (Direct link: HERE). The standalone version offers more options than the version incorporated into Cura. You can use this for manual control of your 3D printer and Cura for slicing and preparing the model for printing.
After your auto-calibration finished and the lights turned green, re-plug the power to your printer to restart it. Heat up your hotend to 185 Celsius by typing in 184 into the Pronterface temperature setting and clicking the up arrow key to change it from 184 to 185. When you click the up arrow key, it will activate the heater on the hotend to reach the desired temperature. The hotend should heat up in under a minute and your lights will change from blue to red.
Next, take the sample of filament that came with your printer and cut the end at a sharp angle so as to make loading the filament easier. Push down on the extruder lever with one hand (just a bit to release tension, not all the way down) and insert the end of the filament from the left side of the extruder (into the small hole) using the other hand. Push the orange filament all the way up through the tube and into the hotend until you see plastic coming out the nozzle. You may see a different color coming out at first since we test your printer at our factory before shipping it. Once you see filament start to ooze out the nozzle, use the Cura software commands to push the rest of the filament as shown in the screenshot on the right until you see orange filament start to come out.
Tip: If you’re having difficulties pushing the filament through the extruder and into the tube, try fiddling with the extruder lever a bit. You can also try cutting the tip of the filament from both sides so that it’s in the shape of a cone rather than a right triangle. The sharper the tip of the filament, the easier it will be to load it into the tube.
Also, make sure you do not simply put the orange PLA sample that came with your printer on the table. You need to hang it on a bar or some sort of roller setup so that it easily feeds into the aluminum extruder on the side of the printer. Otherwise if you simply lay it down on the table, it can get tangled and cause a jam.
Now we’re going to go ahead and start your first print! Exciting!!
Tape some blue painter’s tape onto the bed (not included with printer) as shown in the picture on the right (we recommend purchasing 3M #2090 blue painters tape – it works really well). Make sure the tape has no air bubbles under it and that the perimeter of the tape is flat so it doesn’t peel off. The strips of tape should also not be overlapping each other.
After adhering the tape to the aluminum bed, use a paper towel and pour just a tiny bit of alcohol on it and wipe the tape with it. DO NOT pour alcohol onto the printer! Using alcohol will remove any oil or contaminants from touching the tape with your fingers to ensure that parts stick to the bed and don’t warp. We recommend you use Isopropyl Alcohol that is stated for at least 90%.
Then click print. The printer will first home and may be idle for a few minutes while it reaches the correct temperature. Once the temperature target has reached, the hotend will then proceed to move down to the bed and start to print.
Congratulations, you’ve now successfully completed your first print!
Tip: Do not try to print without blue painter’s tape. The plastic will not stick to the aluminum bed. It will only stick to blue painter’s tape. Never use spray, glue or any other adhesives on the printer’s bed to prevent the plastic from warping. Your printer’s aluminum bed must stay clean at all times in case you need to auto-calibrate again in the future. If you use glue or spray it with adhesives, you risk preventing the hotend from making contact with the bed to auto-calibrate.
Also, make sure that the red sleeve does not cover the heat break part of the hotend so the fan can direct airflow around it to cool the heat break. See picture to the right.
Things to consider
Unmount SD Card – When copying files to the Micro SD card using the included adapter, always be sure to eject the card before removing it from your computer. Otherwise you risk the possibility of corrupting your MicroSD card or the files on it, which may cause your printer to malfunction.
The MicroSD card must be inserted into the Delta Go when using it, as it contains the firmware and settings for the printer.
Noise – Noise is a random fluctuation in an electrical signals (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise_(electronics)). This can happen when you overlap the USB cable and the power supply wire. It can also happen when you touch your hotend or aluminum bed by hand. Why is this important and why should you care? Good question! If noise is introduced into your printer while it’s printing, it can trigger a safety feature such as false runaway hotend detection and cause your printer to stop all operations until it’s reset. In other words, your printer will think your hotend is overheating, stop and your print will have to be restarted. Or if you touch the printer’s aluminum bed or hotend while doing auto-calibration, it can cause false readings and mess up the calibration process/results.
If you use tweezers to clean your hotend or remove plastic from the bed of the printer, we recommend you make sure they are anti-static tweezers.
Blue painters tape – We highly recommend you use 3M #2090 Blue Painters tape. The key number here is 2090. We’ve tested this tape and it has a strong enough adhesive to prevent plastic parts from warping. Warped parts can cause print failures as explained in our print troubleshooting guide. You can purchase this from Amazon.com or other retail locations.
Also make sure that when you lay down the tape on the Delta Go’s bed that there are no bubbles under the tape. If you use cheap blue painter’s tape this will happen and cause the first layer to not print flat and possibly start peeling off the bed. You can re-use the blue tape for multiple prints, just make sure to lightly press it back down on the bed again after you pull off a print (since the force of pulling off a print will also pull the tape up) and wipe it with alcohol again in preparation for a new print.
Printing from SD Card – You can also print from the SD card (rather than using USB cable) by saving the prints onto it. This is our preferred method as printing from a computer can sometimes be risky! What if your computer falls asleep or crashes? The print will fail! Or you may also want to move your laptop away from the printer eventually. Printing from SD card is handy when you’re doing long prints. There are two ways to do this:
a) Save the file onto the SD card inside the ‘Prints’ folder. We recommend saving it in this folder to keep it separate from the main config files so you don’t accidentally overwrite them or delete them. Then you can open up Pronterface and type in the command input field
@play /sd/Prints/FILENAME.gcode where FILENAME is the name of your gcode file. Note that upper/lower case is sensitive. Wait until the first layer starts printing before un-mounting the MicroSD card and disconnecting the USB cable from the printer. If you disconnect before it starts printing, you may cause the printer to stop working and will have to restart the print.
b) There is a shorter way to do it also. You can save the file in the root folder of your SD card (not in the Prints folder, outside of it) and name it on_boot.gcode. Now whenever you plug in the power supply to your printer and power it up, the print will automatically start. Make sure you’re ready for it to start before you power up!
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